These cultivars are famously known as Angel wing Begonia or Dragon wing Begonia.
The only thing that adds to the confusion is that you can do such arrangement with most of the Cane Begonia cultivar.
Some Cane Begonia has this specks /spots on the leaves and they tend to disappear when the plant becomes mature. It's only strongly visible when the plant is young.
Also the spots seemed to have the iridescence metallic sheen,
sort of gleams when observe in an angle.
However, there is no way can anyone come to any conclusion to 100% identify that this is the exactly the said ID begonia as the mix cultivation and hybrids were done with too many occurrence with other growers that there is no way to keep a track record of their names or ID.
Here in the list however are just the basic types that are commonly available and their ID is based on these relevant able information.
CANE BEGONIA CARE:
Most Cane Begonia types can be considered hardy compared to other foliage types.
These are much stronger and have a better resistance towards the harsh weather.
They may able to tolerate hotter climate and over-watering. These makes them more popular as they are also more showy on their beautiful flowers compared to the foliage types (Rex Begonia types)
They do require a stake or a pole to keep them upright or else they will fall by their own weight.
Their roots don't go deep and therefore - good care is required to ensure they are not over watered as if the root rot occurs - it would be too late to safe them.
It is therefore best to keep the plant just around waist level by pruning.
The cut stem can be used for new plant propagation as these cane begonias
don't seemed to last more than 2 years.
Failure to do so and you might find that they tend to die suddenly as you find all the leaves fallen away and what's left is succulent like stem and branches. You can prune and replant them but if you rot at the base of the stem - it's most likely that the plant is dying & chances of reviving it is extremely slim.
The best I had found so far is using more of a fast draining medium.
I find sand works best - at least 50% of the portion of sand mix with ordinary potting medium, if this is not found another alternative would be 1/3 (perlite) 1/3 (potting mix) 1/3 (succulent/cactus mix)
This is to ensure that it has a rich medium which also fast draining.
Water logged medium especially clay types or any water soaking medium are not recommended as these can cause root rot and can be detrimental for the begonia.
I sometimes find cocopeat used as medium when purchasing these plant from the nurseries.
I believe these are good for initial propagation for root development but I doubt it can able to stand on long-term basis especially when the plant matures and grows bigger.
That's why these plants don't last long when they are not replanted & the soil medium changed.
Also do not allow it to completely dry out before watering.
Sometimes they can tolerate to this kind of watering but if you missed the most crucial moment,
the plant can succumb to over stress and may not recover at all.
Especially if the stem started to dry out in between the nodes
(which can happen even on ordinary conditions)
The begonia will revert as if it is a succulent plant and becomes dormant.
You have no choice but to prune and replant the plant and hope it revives back.
I had lost few species because of this condition as the cuttings did not take root.
FEEDING / FERTILIZER REGIME:
It is best to identify what is best fertilizer that works for them by slowly introducing the fertilizer using a smaller dosage. After observing at each week and see if the plant is stressed or thriving.
As too much strong fertilizer for this particular type can burn the leaves and so care is required when feeding this plant.
I had used Osmocote fertiliser before and had found them very unreliable and unstable as to determine how much to use - too much and the plant withers away - too less and the plant doesn't grow to it's optimum size. Ideally using 3-4 pieces of Osmocote as fertilizer - 2 week once would be good but in case if it's over used - the begonia plant dies.
On alternative week - I spray root hormone known as (Vitamin B1) a solution for stronger root growth as these are prone for root rot. Again I use in half strength - a capful with half bucket of water.
Locally its known as "Pokok Asam Batu" which translate as stoned tamarind.
I'm not sure if it referred to the citrus sour taste on the flowers but I had checked on some reference where it were sold in wet markets as vegetables.
Just like any begonias,
Cane Begonias are very sensitive to fungus attack and rot.
If there is any sign of rot taking place - immediate action is necessary or the whole plant is lost.
That's why, I always emphasis always to have at least a spare plant from the cutting / pruned from the mother plant as these are sensitive and may die suddenly without giving any warning.
Unlike other Begonia types, (where only leaf section is used)
Cane Begonias can only be propagated using stem propagation.
And therefore, it is important to use a fresh cutting that is without any rot or fungus attack.
Some begonias are very strong that you can easily root them by placing the stem in water but not all works in this situation as sometimes they may root but may not survive once transferred into a soil medium.
LIST OF CULTIVARS OF CANE BEGONIAS:
There are no way can anyone come to any conclusion to 100% identify
that this is the exactly the said ID begonia
as the mix cultivation and hybrids were done with too many occurrence with other growers
& that there is no track record for reference on their names or ID.
Here in the list however are just the basic types that are commonly available
and their ID is based on these relevant available information.