Welcome to my Tropical Garden in Malaysia where the focus is mainly cultivating unique and colorful plants ranging from rare to common plants all around the tropical belt across the world.
Just a little bit of a basic introduction this particular begonia, this is not a common type, I believe is one of the rare ones that is recently been introduced in the local nursery here; uh perhaps about five years ago this is considered one of the exotic ones which is considered very expensive but however now it is very much commonly available though the price is not so cheap however it's very much affordable now compared to a few years ago.
Commonly known as Cane Begonia Brevirimosa. It is actually a native to Papua new guinea, there is another version of this which is more brilliant in red, which is identified as ssp exotica. So however this is the one that I've actually come across here in my region which is commonly available. I must say that this is not an easy plant to care for. I had actually bought this once and it actually has died in my hands due to lack of proper care.
So in a way, I can say that this requires a little bit more on high care maintenance as these are not hardy plants one. The main factor that you must observe here is that these leaves and their foliage are actually very very fragile, so one of the factors here that you have to observe is not to get too many water droplets or even be exposed to rainwater on them, as they can get easily damaged. Of course, another factor that I want to talk about is the appearance. If you ever notice it clearly this particular begonia looks very much similar to the "Burning Bush", "Arabian sunset" and even "seripetala."
So in a way, they do have similar characteristics; however I can say in a way that it is questionable that it can be a hybrid but it is a species. So in a way, they all are interrelated. One factor though, I can say is that not to underestimate the element of humidity because lacking which, they can die because these are sensitive plants. So coming back to plant care, one of the factors here is that I can see over here - that this particular begonias here has actually been cultivated and appear to be very matured and if you can see at the bottom of the plants, they are very much uh leafless.
So in a way I feel (this is my personal opinion) I feel that this plant has already come to a stage where it is coming to the end of its cycle. So one of the mistakes the most beginners; beginner gardeners they normally purchase this plant thinking that he can actually spend for another one to three months time and eventually they just die away because of shock in a new environment or a change of atmosphere or climate and a change of plant care especially some gardeners may be very zealous enough to overwater the plant then it may start to deteriorate.
So one of the factors here that I would normally do here is that I will keep them in a bright shade but I will also check on the soil medium to see whether it is soaking wet or just moist. Of course when it comes to begonias, it's always very important to check on the soil medium. Now over here upon inspection I noticed that this actually planted using cocopeat and also they have used manure for the fertilizer. In a way, I find that it is a little bit challenging, of course here these are nurseries that actually focused more on sale of the plant but as far as cultivation and maintenance is concerned, this can be challenging.
So in this context, normally what I'll do here is that, I will actually replant the whole thing and basically I will actually repot, take out the whole root ball out and also change the soil medium into what I normally use, I always will use coconut chips with compost together with sand and I find that this actually works best for me in my garden condition. This is basically the one that I have in my garden, if you notice that the older matured leaf appears to be a little bit burnt and spent. I believe this is one of the contexts where I find that they are sensitive.
Also if you look at it this, is how I've changed and use my planting medium which is coconut chips and sand and compost. The other factor that I also also realized is that when it comes to this particular type of begonias, they need to be in bright shade. And one of the most important things that I've noticed is that they don't do so well in a dark shaded area.
So do keep in mind that keeping them in dark shaded areas can cause them to succumb to rot problems especially leaf rot and stem rot, root rot. So also observing them on a weekly basis to see that the plant perked up and also give out new growth especially this particular one, there's a new leaf you can notice and appears to be robust and strong. So all these factors are actually very important to have a check and balance on these types of begonia.
Another factor that I actually put here, is that I find that this particular plant condition is the highest humidity that I actually receive and so it's actually been snuck up together with episcias and a few other plants which I find that it creates a very strong humidity factor.
Obviously I do not have an element where artificial humidity is being used where I do not have a paludarium or vivarium or all those kinds of things where keeping them in proper balance and control. So these are actually exposed to my open garden condition.
Also another factor here is that I noticed that after the plant has stabilized itself about a month's time and you can notice new growth, then actually it is nothing much to worry about as it is stabilized and has a climate acclimated in your garden condition.
In today's video, I would like to talk about a situation where you would find a cane begonia suddenly dying away. I have experienced many times in a situation where it appears to be a little bit of a mystery to me where a healthy begonia; Cane begonia and that seems to be a little bit like leggy and the leaves tend to drop off and don't look so healthy looking, something similar like the earlier Cane.
Now if you notice that some of it seems to be very uh robust and healthy looking and eventually over time it appears to be maturing and the whole leaf will just drop away. In this context if you look over here, this appears to be very healthy looking and seems to be very much robust and strong. So in a way there's nothing to be worried about and this is how Can begonia should look like, where they appear to be very vibrant and strong, like in most cases like all these cane begonias if you notice.
Over here, you see I've actually trimmed some of it and I've actually used for propagation and I'll show you how I actually propagate them so but anyway just for a viewing pleasure this is how they are supposed to be uh vibrant, strong, a little bit more like a vegetable plant' where it is strong and sturdy. Now I must say that and I will make a very strong emphasis to always keep spare begonia plants because these begonias especially actually all Canes including cane begonia and rhizome begonias; the lifespans are very short and sometimes you may not even know what happens to them and suddenly they may just rot away and just die and when that situation arises it's just too late to save anything.
Now looking over here as I was mentioning, this appears to be a little bit like in a dying stage but it's not dead yet so i can save it if you look over here uh if I were to leave it for chance and just uh continue to cultivate it eventually all these leaves will drop away and the whole thing will rot away and it's dead. So instead of leaving it for chances uh what I have decided here is, I've actually trimmed it and I'm planning to propagate it and one of the higher chances of propagation here is to propagate them using water; and I find that it's far more successful than cutting it and placing them straight into the media. Now looking at this if you were to see how I actually prepare it.
Actually take a plastic bottle and cut into half and actually place it like this and over a week or two these will start to grow uh water roots on them and with these roots they has a higher chances of survival rather than uh leaving them be as it is or trimming and placing them straight into the soil medium. Another thing here is that I am not actually using any rooting hormone or anything of that kind, just fresh water in this and occasionally about three or four days' time I will change the water and I'll check on it just to make sure that everything is in good condition.
Another factor about leaving uh water in this kind of situation is that they can breed mosquitoes so you may have to keep an eye on that just to make sure there is no mosquito larvae in it and if you do just make sure that you responsibly get rid of them, before they turn into a breeding ground. So this is how I actually prepare it if you notice that I will always make sure that there are no leaves touching the water because I find that when they do they tend to rot and the whole thing can be a waste.
So make sure that placing them in a condition where none of the water is touching the leaves but it is well hydrated where the stem is actually uh into the water at least one or two nodes but these are the things that you have to take note of. I am actually taking chances on this because, as I mentioned earlier if I were to leave it as it is growing on the flower pot, chances are this is actually a goner but doing this there's a higher chance of this to survive and I'm actually able to propagate and grow it.
So the earlier part there when I actually trimmed off those stem that you have actually noticed this is actually those stem cutting which I placed them this about two to three weeks in water and if you can actually notice it there are some uh root growth on this uh stem. if you can see it clearly also if you notice that I hope you can see there's some whiskers kind of roots, that is actually appearing on the uh nodes especially these the leaf nodes, so this is this this appears to be very healthy looking and and I'm actually planning to propagate them in soil medium which I will show to you on how I actually do it later at the end of this video.
now some thoughts about this is that I'm actually actually kept this indoors uh away from direct hot sun but however it is actually underneath a bright fluorescent light and this seems to do fine as I mentioned earlier occasionally I'll check on them about three or four days uh once and to make sure there is no leaf uh no leaf drop into it or anything or rot into it. okay, the other thing that I want to mention to you that if you do find one stem appears to be rotting, do remove it immediately because if you don't the whole thing can rot away. So that could be a major waste on that.
This is a different type of begonia also a stem cutting which I placed it in water and you can see clearly the roots have established itself very much matured and many roots have actually developed in this condition and I find that doing this seems to be far more effective in keeping the cane begonia species in your garden. you know in a way that this style of propagation seems to work best in my garden condition.
The other factor that I would like to share here is that if you keep the container where the water is just a quarter, you don't have to really fill it up and I find that the water the higher the chances of success. In a way, I find that uh these cuttings do give out some pheromone or hormones to it, for it to grow. okay this particular one, I've actually cut them too late and it was about to die and as you guys see it's already dead and rotten away.
So what I'm sharing here is that it's not all together with everything a success rate, there will be a chance and this is one of the things that I've taken a chance to save it and it didn't work. okay this particular cane begonia is actually from the "maculata wrightii" species and I find that some are a little bit more sensitive and difficult and some are very hardy. And so this particular one I find that the "Albo picta" type, seems to be very hardy and able to handle my garden condition, where it is almost wet and humid and sometimes it's very hot so very unpredictable weather conditions.
Now these are the materials that I use for my propagation. I think these are the basic things that you actually need a plastic pot or you can use any pots that you have. I use this, this is a cotton fiber which I use as a drainage piece for the propagation because I find that anything else that seems to block the drainage hole and may cause root rot problem. so in a way do find something you can also use netting or uh even pebbles.
Okay, the next thing that I actually use this is actually coconut chips which actually cut them on my own; I collected them around my garden area in my region and I find that this is far more economical and practical for me. you can actually buy them online but however I find that it's very expensive, so do check around a neighborhood or any of your friends who do have a coconut tree and if they were to or open up their coconut shells and I think this is one of the best mediums that I find that work best in my garden. So apart from coconut chips, I also use sand uh this is a little bit of a coarse sand, you can see a little bit of pebble like kind of a situation here.
Also again it's a little bit difficult to get this online or but if you can get your hands on it uh do find them uh I get my sand around abandoned construction areas where the leftover sand and I use that. Okay, this is a container where I keep my compost and I find that this is one of the most important mediums that I use for my uh propagation.
So again, compost is is nothing of an expensive type something that they can actually buy very cheaply from any of the garden centers; so these are the three main ingredients that I use for my propagation. now coming to how I do it uh what I do is after putting the the cotton fiber, I just place a little bit of these coconut chips in it and I find that coconut chips actually aids stronger root growth, so in a way that this is how I do it's very much like layering a little bit of coconut chips followed by the sand and then uh I use a lot of compost; as you can see here uh it's sort of like one layer of it uh you not to put too much of it but just uh adequately.
then another set of coconut chips, followed by sand and just to see that it the whole thing sits on it and these are the cuttings that are actually used. so you can see clearly here uh I hope the camera is able to zoom in this uh microscopic root ball here, so this is actually adequate and good enough for the plant to to survive in and this is very important because the lack of which chances are this can rot away.
now I also notice that this one particular one did not root and uh i think uh the whole thing and there's a slight rot taking place here so I had to put back into the water I may have to trim this off and restart again and see how it fast later but i see that this plant is a little bit uh how do you say healthy so nothing to worry about.
I'll deal with that later so I think this tree uh cuttings is good to go in this flower pot. so you can actually plant one uh plant in a one small pot but I find that this is good enough to hold three, so I'm just showing how I'm doing it here. now the other hand is actually holding my camera so a little bit difficult so I'm just showing to you how I'm going to do it shortly, so I've rearranged it here you can see it here that uh I just lightly has placed the coconut chips so just to hold it and I will be topping up with more of this planting material here,
the medium here, to how do you say to hold them. okay the other thing here is this uh you can bunch them all together and plant it but I find that doing so they may uh become how do you say uh fight with each other for nutrients; so placing them apart seems to work best or if you have the space and the and the means to do so; plant one cutting each in a separate tiny pot.
okay, the other thing here is this; do not over pot this begonias and i find that a lot of gardeners make a mistake of repotting them to a bigger pot and only find that the begonia seems to die away; so if any means are always under pot then don't over pot them. I think this particular set can actually last for a year plus if I'm not wrong and so this is how I actually do it. you can notice that they are not compressed and pressed hard but just nicely done so uh there's enough room for the roots to grow and
okay the other thing that I want to mention to you is I also use chopsticks to straighten the plant, so that it doesn't bend or fall or lose its balance. Eventually these canes will actually grow taller and you can actually replace these bamboo sticks chopsticks with stronger, sturdier sticks for them to take support. Other than that the basic care is very much simple, bright indirect light, uh also watering them with cautions because too much if they are too wet the whole thing can rot away; so just lightly watering them when the medium is slightly dry uh other than that occasionally I would say about once a week a foliar fertilizer on them so that they have enough nutrients and other than that I find that they are actually hardy plants. Another factor that I notice is that they do not have so much of a pest problem, unless uh if they are not placed in an adequate location.
Sometimes I find that if they are placed in a too dark uh in a place uh two shaded in environment this tends to attract pests on them, especially mealy bug or scale insect. so bright indirect light: also I would like to see at least one to two hours or three hours of sunlight on them seems to do good in a longer run.
These are what I had recently lost by making a grave mistake - repotting them into a bigger pot.
I also noticed that Cane Begonias loves to be pot bound and prefer not replanted in a bigger pot - I had a horrible lesson learned when I had almost lost a whole collection when I repotted them to a bigger pot. The whole root-ball in all of them started to rot from the bottom. The Cane Begonias doesn't look healthy - slowly the started to shed one leaf after another and the Cane started browning and drying up at the mid-section of the Cane.
By the time, I tried to attend to rectify it - it was too late, I managed to safe few cuttings and the rest never recovered. This is one of the most challenging moments when it comes to Cane Begonias - hence it is very important to always have spares or friend/few friends who cultivate and keep the begonias for you in case yours gone into the state of emergency or kaput.
Growing these Cane Begonias in Tight spaces without over-potting them. These Begonias seemed to love this type of conditions as I often noticed that bigger pots tend to hold to much water in the medium causing root rot. Smaller and tight pots seemed to work best for them.
This a continuation of the earlier post where I have managed to cultivate and grow the Cane Begonias successfully without major mishaps. In basic summary these are the pointers that I have learned and managed to keep these Cane Begonias in Cultivation:
1) Grow them on a Table Top instead of Growing them on Ground - due to the factor on rainy days - the ground can be too wet and water can easily seep into the pot causing the medium to be too wet - causing root rot problems.
2) Tight Pot Bound
Growing these Cane Begonias in Tight spaces without over-potting them. These Begonias seemed to love this type of conditions as I often noticed that bigger pots tend to hold to much water in the medium causing root rot. Smaller and tight pots seemed to work best for them.
3) Medium
Changing the Medium only using Coconut Chips & Sand and using Compost at the bottom seemed to have a very success rate on best plant growth in comparison with so many other mediums.
4) Fertilizer
Weekly NPK Foliar Fertilizer works best for them in comparison with so many other types - lacking NPK does create a whole other problems as these can be very hungry plants - lacking food can make the plant revert to faster maturity causing the plant to go dormant and deciduous (dropping all it's leaves)
5) Watering
Watering these sparingly - just keeping them moist but not over watered.
6) Spare Plants.
Always keep spare plant cuttings - cultivating 2-3 begonia plants separately in a different pot as spares. This is to ensure - just in case the plants suddenly dies and you have a spare plant in your collection. Always consider keeping begonias in 2-3 spare potted plants to avoid heartaches and disappointments when the plant suddenly dies.
7) Ditch the Ones that Failed to Survive after Countless Times.
It a bit of a caution note - of course its much of being prudent and wise to note that regardless what - some begonias will never able to survive in your garden no matter what you tried. They may survive for sometime but eventually never thrive and dies. These sensitive types are best to avoid from repurchasing and introducing them in your garden.
Perhaps it is some wisdom involved to note that if in the collection - when all the begonias are doing so well but just the particular one or two just seemed to be not happening. I had some fair share of those cane begonias of which I love to view and enjoy from afar in nurseries but refrain from purchasing them and introducing them in my garden.
I also noticed that some other gardeners somehow manage to cultivate them in their garden using so many various chemicals and fertilizers to keep them going even included using terrariums to control humidity factors - I for one not so dedicated as those gardeners, I prefer my garden plants to be able to be naturally embedded and open in my garden space without restraint.
Again, I dare not say and list them her on what works and what doesn't due to my lack of experience over them - as I find strangely the ones that many think difficult to cultivate grows easily in my garden space and the ones that many think it is easy and hardy seemed to suffer greatly to grow and thrive.
Hence, I can say, some works best and some don't and it is very much a factor of discovery and wonder in each gardening experience.
Once these have been established - I believe you can cultivate these begonias in long-term basis
One of the main problems I had noticed and faced are the countless times when these Cane Begonias are accidentally knocked and broken over especially by rodents and cats that comes into my garden. It was truly heart wrenching moment to find beautiful well formed and grown canes been broken in the next morning and the plant being in shock never recovered and I had lost that particular species from my collection.
Finding a replacement is often rare as these are not easy to find in the nurseries and often they don't come cheap. A small cutting also appears to have its risk and chances of survival. However, with long-term dedication - I have managed to find some tricks of my own, again with lots of trial and errors - some begonias I had totally surrendered due to many countless failures.
CHARACTERISTICS:
Hence with all the lesson learned cultivating Cane Begonias - I had realized that the one of the most important factors concerning Cane Begonias over any other growing factors are the Location.
The Location of which where you place them is the NO:1 important detail you must consider apart from watering or lighting. The Location that is ideal place for them in your garden spot. I had found that instead of placing them on ground - they seemed to do much better on a stand or on a table setting.
Here, I had placed them over my pond boundary top as it is very ideal for them to receive excellent humidity and indirect bright light - also the medium is not too wet, especially like the ones placed on ground for comparison - the ones on ground rarely survive long-term for some strange reason. I suspect that due to constant rain and wet ground - the water tend to seep in or keep the medium too wet causing root rot in long-term basis.
In this condition however, it is not that damaging - hence they seemed to fair very well.
I also noticed that Cane Begonias loves to be pot bound and prefer not replanted in a bigger pot - I had a horrible lesson learned when I had almost lost a whole collection when I repotted them to a bigger pot. The whole root-ball in all of them started to rot from the bottom. The Cane Begonias doesn't look healthy - slowly the started to shed one leaf after another and the Cane started browning and drying up at the mid-section of the Cane.
By the time, I tried to attend to rectify it - it was too late, I managed to safe few cuttings and the rest never recovered. This is one of the most challenging moments when it comes to Cane Begonias - hence it is very important to always have spares or friend/few friends who cultivate and keep the begonias for you in case yours gone into the state of emergency or kaput.
Even with all of the Care and proper Cultivation - you will still find one or two which will show some resistance and sudden death - something that I'm so used to it that I do not have high expectation over them as I know they seemed to have a temporary life span when it comes to begonias.
I also noticed that some Cane Begonias are much more hardier than some. Also there are few types that are very much sensitive and difficult to cultivate in comparison to the rest. Hence it is always important to check and figure it out what is your interest and the other factors on what you are willing to invest in creating the ideal conditions to cultivate temperate like begonias for their growing conditions.
I for one, prefer to cultivate the ones that are easy to take care and manage in the basic maintenance which require less care - if I'm going to place too much care needs for them - I would consider it is not ideal conditions for them to grow in my garden in that general idea - similar like having a temperate garden plants like tulips and pansies in the tropical hot and wet garden - these plants will rot away within a weeks time.
With all things said, I find growing the Begonias together works like magic - especially when they are clumped together and grown closely with mixed matched pots, they don't seemed to mind. And Cane Begonias do appear to be hardy and easy to care for in comparison to rhizome begonias.
These are the Collection of the Cane Begonias which I managed to Cultivate and Grow on July to December 2021.
GENERAL BEGONIA PLANT CARE:
Plant Care is very similar like most Rhizome Begonia Care & Cultivation Needs. This depends in different garden or indoor conditions - its all depending on getting the right balanced conditions.
Depending on the Begonia adaptation and its ability to handle hardy conditions - if the plant is stress it may drop all it's leaves before regeneration - hence more care is required to ensure the right balance of watering and humidity verse root and stem rot.
Medium:
Fast Draining - 1/3 Compost at the bottom layered with coconut chips and sand in between the rhizome root-ball.
Watering Water only when the Medium is Dry
Feeding Foliar Fertilizer - Once a Week with 1/2 Dilution Strength.
(Depending on what works best in your garden conditions - some gardeners use chicken/goat manure, coffee based fertilizer, organic fertilizer - test out and see on a trial basis to see what works best in your garden conditions)
Light
Place in Bright, Indirect Light - Shaded from direct hot sun areas - Ideal for Balcony Plants.
Do take note that this one truly hate too much water - the leaves may also change colors, especially turning pale green and the red and burgundy coloration faded. Do take note that if this happens - most likely the plant lifespan is numbered and the eventually leaf by leaf - they start dropping and the rhizome dried up or rotting and it is too late to safe the plant or rectify the problem.
Hence - do watch out on the overwatering part - the medium too play a big part on this, especially if it purchased with cocopeat planted with it - its more likely a dooms-day time clocking by the days for it to kaput. It is much better to take the risk to replant it to a new medium and allow the plant to grow through shock and recover and safe the plant - keeping it long term for years to go by then seeing it fall apart when the cocopeat dried up together with the root-ball.
After countless times of trial and error, I had finally managed to find a suitable and ideal place for this begonia - very much behaves like a succulent plant - it hates to move and prefer no shocking moment.
Just the constant same boring life of few days once of watering, occasional fertilizer feeding and that's it. No moving around, no disturbance - just stay put where you are in the balcony and it have even overgrown itself from the pot and I'm not even disturbing it anymore.
Now after about 2 years - it looks very happy and had spanned out few stem - trailing rhizome everywhere possible and just as happy as it is - with its usual conditions.
So this is what I had done.
Replant it - using coconut chips and sand with compost at the bottom of the pot for root growth development; 2-3 days once watering and often check if the leaves appears dehydrated or flat on their petiole - water it immediately and occasional foliar fertilizer - that's was the magic formula.
Been sustaining this for 2 years now.
CHARACTERISTICS:
These are some of the information from the earlier post:
This rhizome Begonia U514 was brought from Thailand by Bruce Pearson of Tropical World. The foliage appears to have a dark bronze-green coloration but changes color based on how much light it receives - more greener in shade, more bronze when exposed to very bright light.
The foliage coloration and veins changes due to different light areas. They can be more greener in shade and more vibrantly red when in sun. The leaves are fragile and can easily snap if brushed accidentally as they are not flexible. It's best to keep them in a less movement space in the garden.
The leaf edges have different varieties - some have jagged formation and some have more rounder formation - this appearance changes as the leaf matures.
These do have beautiful tiny bells like pink flowers and may form into seedpods - I had noticed that these flowers do come to blooms when used NPK fertilizers especially for flowering type (the red colored types) However I prefer to use the foliar types instead of granules due to many bad experiences with begonias.
I must say the underside of this begonia is much interesting with the exposed like yellow veins with burgundy background - similar features like most of the black begonia colorations. It is truly pretty looking when the fan like shaped leaves arrayed itself perfectly to give a lovely feature.
GENERAL BEGONIA PLANT CARE:
Plant Care is very similar like most Rhizome Begonia Care & Cultivation Needs. This depends in different garden or indoor conditions - its all depending on getting the right balanced conditions.
Depending on the Begonia adaptation and its ability to handle hardy conditions - if the plant is stress it may drop all it's leaves before regeneration - hence more care is required to ensure the right balance of watering and humidity verse root and stem rot.
Medium:
Fast Draining - 1/3 Compost at the bottom layered with coconut chips and sand in between the rhizome root-ball.
Watering Water only when the Medium is Dry
Feeding Foliar Fertilizer - Once a Week with 1/2 Dilution Strength.
(Depending on what works best in your garden conditions - some gardeners use chicken/goat manure, coffee based fertilizer, organic fertilizer - test out and see on a trial basis to see what works best in your garden conditions)
Light
Place in Bright, Indirect Light - Shaded from direct hot sun areas - Ideal for Balcony Plants.
Do take note that this one truly hate too much water - the leaves may also change colors, especially turning pale green and the red and burgundy coloration faded. Do take note that if this happens - most likely the plant lifespan is numbered and the eventually leaf by leaf - they start dropping and the rhizome dried up or rotting and it is too late to safe the plant or rectify the problem.
Hence - do watch out on the overwatering part - the medium too play a big part on this, especially if it purchased with cocopeat planted with it - its more likely a dooms-day time clocking by the days for it to kaput. It is much better to take the risk to replant it to a new medium and allow the plant to grow through shock and recover and safe the plant - keeping it long term for years to go by then seeing it fall apart when the cocopeat dried up together with the root-ball.
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