Alocasia infernalis 'Black magic'

This one has the appearance of another Colocasia "Black Magic" and more accurately with the mettalic sheen of "Black Ripple" but it is actually mistaken for a Colocasia species which is really a Jewel Alocasia species.

It is a small plant with a brilliant foliage appearance. This Alocasia infernalis is truly a gem and a lot of care is required to make sure it doesn't rot, go dormant and disappear away.

The Care and Cultivation is very similar with Jewel Alocasia specification:

Lighting:
Not too hot that will jade or burn the foliage and not too shaded that the leaves will start to turn yellow and wither away - a bright shade is the most ideal thing for this one.

Medium:
I often find this one grown and cultivated inside a cocopeat and end up killing it when overwatering it. And thus removing the access cocopeat and mix the medium 50% cocopeat with 50% sand to create the fast draining factor for watering purpose.

Watering:
Overwatering is the main reason why this plant dies - do be very concern about this matter.

Feeding:
I find this is the most important factor - without proper feeding this plant will slowly will loose it leaves - one in a week and eventually goes dormant. It does however have a corm (bulb) that is very important to consider not to overwater it to cause it to go rotting inside the soil. Thus - proper care is required that it won't go dormant and totally lost.
Though - it may go dormant - do make sure it doesn't rot away.

Also I had found with my research the best fertilizer that works for this one is root hormone known as B1 and osmocote fertilizers. I believe seaweed solution too works best. The most important factor is getting the right balance and very much fall in the trial and error factors - it is somehow not a easy plant to cultivate but truly a rewarding one.

Other matters concerning the Care & Cultivation Methods on Watering, Medium and Pruning

Do refer to the link below:
Introduction to Jewel Alocasia

Do click to the Link Below 

To check on the Main Page Concerning Different Types of Jewel Alocasia:

Different Types of Jewel Alocasia - Names & Images

Alocasia Micholitziana

INTRODUCTION:

Alocasia Micholitziana is commonly known as Green Velvet Alocasia, Green Velvet Taro. This particular one is endermic to the island of Luzon in Philippines.

I must say that it was unpopularly mis-identified and still is as Alocasia Frydek where this particular one has white patches on the leaves as a variegated specimen. The common green one however is now very much identified as Alocasia Micholitziana.

It has similar apperance of a Jewel Alocasia and almost similarly with African Mask Alocasia.

This one has velvety sheen on the foliage surface. The texture is almost satin like feel.

The Care and Cultivation is very similar with Jewel Alocasia specification:

LIGHT:

Not too hot that will jade or burn the foliage and not too shaded that the leaves will start to turn yellow and wither away - a bright shade is the most ideal thing for this one.

SOIL / POTTING MEDIUM:

I often find this one grown and cultivated inside a cocopeat and end up killing it when overwatering it. And thus removing the access cocopeat and mix the medium 50% cocochips with 50% sand to create the fast draining factor for watering purpose.

WATERING

Overwatering is the main reason why this plant dies - do be very concern about this matter. However I also have come across where this one also does well in the hydroponic conditions where it is planted using lecaballs and the rootball slightly submerged in the water container.

FERTILIZER:

I find this is the most important factor - without proper feeding this plant will slowly will loose it leaves - one in a week and eventually goes dormant. It does however have a corm (bulb) that is very important to consider not to overwater it to cause it to go rotting inside the soil. Thus - proper care is required that it won't go dormant and totally lost.
Though - it may go dormant - do make sure it doesn't rot away.

I normally use foliar fertilizer in half strength, just not to overwhelm the plant, in case it goes into shock or domancy.

Also I had found with my research the best fertilizer that works for this one is root hormone known as B1 and osmocote fertilizers. I believe seaweed solution too works best. The most important factor is getting the right balance and very much fall in the trial and error factors - it is somehow not a easy plant to cultivate but truly a rewarding one.

Other matters concerning the Care & Cultivation Methods on Watering, Medium and Pruning

Do refer to the link below:
Introduction to Jewel Alocasia

Do click to the Link Below 

To check on the Main Page Concerning Different Types of Jewel Alocasia:

Different Types of Jewel Alocasia - Names & Images

Alocasia Sinuata

This is known as a Jewel Alocasia.

At this point, the only thing that is unique is the slight variation and the uniqueness of different coloration and texture and foliage formation - the variation is indeed interesting to note whether these are actually different species that is actually from the natural habitat or if they are actually a product of hybrid formed from crossed cultured by nursery owners.

The Care and Cultivation is very similar with Jewel Alocasia specification:

Lighting:
Not too hot that will jade or burn the foliage and not too shaded that the leaves will start to turn yellow and wither away - a bright shade is the most ideal thing for this one.


Medium:
I often find this one grown and cultivated inside a cocopeat and end up killing it when overwatering it. And thus removing the access cocopeat and mix the medium 50% cocopeat with 50% sand to create the fast draining factor for watering purpose.

Watering:
Overwatering is the main reason why this plant dies - do be very concern about this matter.


Feeding:
I find this is the most important factor - without proper feeding this plant will slowly will loose it leaves - one in a week and eventually goes dormant. It does however have a corm (bulb) that is very important to consider not to overwater it to cause it to go rotting inside the soil. Thus - proper care is required that it won't go dormant and totally lost.
Though - it may go dormant - do make sure it doesn't rot away.

Also I had found with my research the best fertilizer that works for this one is root hormone known as B1 and osmocote fertilizers. I believe seaweed solution too works best. The most important factor is getting the right balance and very much fall in the trial and error factors - it is somehow not a easy plant to cultivate but truly a rewarding one.

Other matters concerning the Care & Cultivation Methods on Watering, Medium and Pruning

Do refer to the link below:
Introduction to Jewel Alocasia

Do click to the Link Below 

To check on the Main Page Concerning Different Types of Jewel Alocasia:

Different Types of Jewel Alocasia - Names & Images

Alocasia Reversa

This particular one is considered a Jewel Alocasia.

Strangely it is known as Alocasia Reversa - supposed having a reversed coloration where the leaves should be in appearance reversed with "Black Velvet Alocasia"

It is not a hardy plant and may easily succumb and rot away if overwatered - the succulent features of these plant - where the leaves are very much have a hard texture almost like a shield - a leather thick foliage.

These have a silver green outer surface along with grey and dark green center with veins sunken deep inside the leaf surface. 

Also it is amazing to note that this one is native plant from Sabah Borneo and considered not commonly available in many nurseries due to the slow growing nature and may easily die if proper care is not given.

Usually sold in nurseries with 3-4 leaves in a small dwarf like plant, often you might find 2 plants in a pot usually sold around RM18 or so depending on size and availability.

I have been keeping this one for many months - still looking dormant with slowly breaking forth a new leaf shoot slowly appearing by the main foliage. This leaf appear to be tilted instead of upright.
I'm still amazed that this particular singular leaf have been just like that for so many months.

Lighting:

Not too hot that will jade or burn the foliage and not too shaded that the leaves will start to turn yellow and wither away - a bright shade is the most ideal thing for this one.

Medium:

I often find this one grown and cultivated inside a cocopeat and end up killing it when overwatering it. And thus removing the access cocopeat and mix the medium 50% cocopeat with 50% sand to create the fast draining factor for watering purpose. 

Watering:

Overwatering is the main reason why this plant dies - do be very concern about this matter.

Feeding:

I find this is the most important factor - without proper feeding this plant will slowly will loose it leaves - one in a week and eventually goes dormant. It does however have a corm (bulb) that is very important to consider not to overwater it to cause it to go rotting inside the soil. Thus - proper care is required that it won't go dormant and totally lost.

Though - it may go dormant - do make sure it doesn't rot away.

Also I had found with my research the best fertilizer that works for this one is root hormone known as B1 and osmocote fertilizers. I believe seaweed solution too works best. The most important factor is getting the right balance and very much fall in the trial and error factors - it is somehow not a easy plant to cultivate but truly a rewarding one.

Other matters concerning the Care & Cultivation Methods on Watering, Medium and Pruning

Do refer to the link below:
Introduction to Jewel Alocasia

Do click to the Link Below 

To check on the Main Page Concerning Different Types of Jewel Alocasia:

Different Types of Jewel Alocasia - Names & Images

Alocasia Melo (Alocasia rugosa)

In comparison to all the Alocasia species listed, 

this particular one is considered a Jewel Alocasia - similar to Black Velvet variety.

It is not a hardy plant and may easily succumb and rot away if overwatered - the succulent features of these plant - where the leaves are very much have a hard texture almost like a shield - a leather thick foliage.

These have a mono coloration wrinkled texture of grey and silvery-green with veins sunken deep inside the leaf surface. Indeed a unique type indeed.

Also it is amazing to note that this one is native plant from Sabah Borneo and considered not commonly available in many nurseries due to the slow growing nature and may easily die if proper care is not given.

Usually sold in nurseries with 3-4 leaves in a small dwarf like plant, often you might find 2 plants in a pot usually sold around RM18 or so depending on size and availability.

I had challenges with this one.

Killed if few times - got it right for many months and still end up killing it as I took it for granted.

This one is similar behavior with Caladium - always in the balance of everything - not too much of everything.

Lighting:

Not too hot that will jade or burn the foliage and not too shaded that the leaves will start to turn yellow and wither away - a bright shade is the most ideal thing for this one.

Medium:

I often find this one grown and cultivated inside a cocopeat and end up killing it when overwatering it. And thus removing the access cocopeat and mix the medium 50% cocopeat with 50% sand to create the fast draining factor for watering purpose. 

Watering:

Overwatering is the main reason why this plant dies - do be very concern about this matter.

Feeding:

I find this is the most important factor - without proper feeding this plant will slowly will loose it leaves - one in a week and eventually goes dormant. It does however have a corm (bulb) that is very important to consider not to overwater it to cause it to go rotting inside the soil. Thus - proper care is required that it won't go dormant and totally lost.

Though - it may go dormant - do make sure it doesn't rot away.

Also I had found with my research the best fertilizer that works for this one is root hormone known as B1 and osmocote fertilizers. I believe seaweed solution too works best. The most important factor is getting the right balance and very much fall in the trial and error factors - it is somehow not a easy plant to cultivate but truly a rewarding one.

I will update on this particular one once I get my hands on this one later when I get this again.

There are few variety of the Jewel Alocasia variety.

Other matters concerning the Care & Cultivation Methods on Watering, Medium and Pruning

Do refer to the link below:
Introduction to Jewel Alocasia

Do click to the Link Below 

To check on the Main Page Concerning Different Types of Jewel Alocasia:

Different Types of Jewel Alocasia - Names & Images

Alocasia reginula 'Black Ninja' (Updated Feb 2022)

INTRODUCTION:

In comparison to all the Alocasia species listed, this particular one is considered a Jewel.

It is not a hardy plant and may easily succumb to stem & root rot if overwatered - the succulent features of these plant - where the leaves are very much have a hard texture almost like a shield - a leather thick foliage.

These have a dark, almost black foliage with brilliant silvery-white veins sunken deep inside the leaf surface. Indeed a unique type indeed.

I had challenges with this one.

Killed if few times - got it right for many months and still end up killing it as I took it for granted.

This one is similar behavior with Caladium - always in the balance of everything - not too much of everything.

CHARACTERISTICS:

There have been some confusion concerning the true identification - unless you have both plant side by side, it is going to be quite difficult to actually note the difference. However, after careful investigation, I have managed to put a video together to actually see the real difference.

I also noticed that many people and collectors are quick to label both 'Black Velvet' and 'Black Ninja' as the same plant - however, the name identification can also be challenging when reputable nurseries mis-identify them without proper research.

However - this is very much 'Black Ninja' the white central mid-rib  are much elaborate and thick in comparison to 'Black Velvet' also the back of the leaves have different features than the latter.

Do view the video as you can see the side by side difference between both plants:

Difference between Alocasia Black 'Ninja' & Alocasia Reginula 'Black Velvet'

LIGHT:

One of the Main factor is Lighting - they require good indirect bright light - neither exposed to direct hot sun and that will scorch the leaves also not total indoor shaded area as it will make the leaves grow leggy and pale looking. 

An ideal lighting would be like few hours of morning sun shaded away from direct rain as these will not do well when exposed to open direct rain water.

POTTING MEDIUM:

I often find this one grown and cultivated inside a cocopeat and end up killing it when overwatering it. And thus removing the access cocopeat and mix the medium 50% coco-chip with 50% sand to create the fast draining factor for watering purpose.

Also I would layer the bottom draining hole with cotton fiber and put 2-3 tablespoon of compost. I came to know that vermi-compost would be the best however if you can get those, a regular compost will do. Make sure you put those at the bottom and then later the sand and coco-chip - layering the root ball carefully as not to direct expose them to the compost.

Another factor is that the medium needs to be fast draining - the river sand and the coconut chip seemed to be the best I had found so far that doesn't kill the plant over time. In comparison to so many other potting medium which I had bad results where the plant suddenly dies due to accidentally overwatering over too dry a medium that cannot hold moisture -  this is the best alternative medium that I had found so far that works.

There are other suggestions where perlite, pumice and  a mixture of cocopeat are also used together, if it does work for you - then I guess it had acclimated and suited to your garden conditions. I must say that my garden conditions are too wet, hence it is not possible - as it can easily cause root and tuber rot.

Also please note - the rot is not visible until it is too late - even the leaves will look sturdy and without damage especially the top crown. Once the rot had taken full damage where the tuber appears to turn into a mush - the plant is totally doomed even though the top crown appears unaffected.

WATERING:

Overwatering is the main reason why this plant dies - do be very concern about this matter.  The rule of the thumb is to water it 3-4 days once or to check with a poke test to see whether to medium is dry before the next watering. The best would be at least 30% of the top soil is dry before the next application. 

Again, this correspond very much together with the medium used as the potting medium. Again -  a lot of trial and error make take place until you get this part right. Once you have succeed in cultivating the right watering and the correct medium for this plant that suit your garden condition, I would truly recommend to get the rest of the different species in your collection as you know they are quite pricey and not easy to come by.

However I have also noticed that most of these plants do come in huge bulk as they are cultivated using tissue culture making their prices cheaper and very much affordable in comparison to the grown tuber conter-parts which may take years and propagated using corms that been produced by the parent plant. 

This may be one of the reason why this plant is still considered rare due to the slow growing process and their sensitivity when they suddenly die due to wrong plant care cultivation.

FERTILIZER:

Once the Plant had established itself it is a good growing cycle, you can rest assured that there will be a new leaf growth in each new month and that will last at least for 3-4 months before the leaf matures and dries off. 

Regular weekly foliar fertilizer would be the best for this one. I had come across some gardeners use osmocote for this particular plant - however, it can be unpredictable when you would want to use the next application as too much of those can actually kill the plant in long term basis. Hence you would never know what actually when wrong until it suddenly dies without any warning. These Jewel Alocasis do just that.

So if in doubt, apply sparingly - however, the best would be just a weekly on the maximum basis as these are slow growing plant which doesn't really need heavy application.

Also I had found with my research the best would work together with fertilizer is added with a root hormone known as B1 or a seaweed solutions. This truly helps the strong root growth process as the life of the plant is very much in the tuber - the more stable and well balanced the root growth - the healthier the plant.

I had relocated this to my balcony area where it is protected from direct sunlight and open rain & I must say that it is doing so well in the control condition where I only water them once in few days time. It may not be a drought tolerating plant however it is definitely doing so well with less watering being stable from rot problems.

Eventually they grow a lot and I'm very happy with their growth progress.

PEST:

I must say the greatest challenge I often faced with Jewel Alocasia apart from rot problems are actually Spidermites and mealy bugs. Also I had found a lof to the pesticides don't seemed to be effective - at times, over application stresses the plant, especially the oil based ones.

I also resorted to trimming and pruning off the badly damaged leaves only to cause more stress and the poor plant dies. The ones that does recover - goes through shock and takes at least about 3-4 months for it regenerate back - any added stress to that cause the whole tuber to rot away.

I had lost almost all of my collection due to this stress and wrong pest management.

Based on my experience, do infest in a good miticide and pesticide. Spidermites are biologically not insect hence that would be the main reason most pesticides that are geared towards insect category don't work on them. Another factor is a strong regime of weekly application - when skip one, they came back with vengeance especially when they would had laid eggs and the 2nd generation may also become immune to the miticide.

Hence take good care not to introduce an infected plant in your collection - it can be devastating if not observed on daily inspection.

Other matters concerning the Care & Cultivation Methods on Watering, Medium and Pruning

Do refer to the link below:
Introduction to Jewel Alocasia

Do click to the Link Below 

To check on the Main Page Concerning Different Types of Jewel Alocasia:

Different Types of Jewel Alocasia - Names & Images

Alocasia macrorrhizos / Alocasia macrorrhiza - Giant Taro

INTRODUCTION:

I would say this is very common plant here in this Southeast Asia Region. So common that it may considered like a weed rather than an ornamental plant. One of the setbacks is that this particular one is so prolific that it is considered a weed rather than anything.

Truth be told - this is one of the most common type of the Elephant Ear Plant found here - literally anywhere around the water-body like drain-side, puddle to the a slight road-side area between grass and fields. That's how common it is.

This particular plant may be mistaken for a yam, this one is not edible.

Also it's botanic name is synonym with Alocasia macrorrhiza

CHARACTERISTICS:

Alocasia macrorrhizos commonly known as Giant Taro or Upright Elephant Ears

However I must emphasize that this is NOT a Colocasia species where it is considered as a Taro (which is edible) 

This one unfortunately is NOT TARO and had caused poisoning over the confusion over the difference of the species - especially Alocasia contains the needle-shaped raphides (calcium oxalate crystals) in the plant cells.

Do note that all parts of this plant contains calcium oxalate crystals. where this substance is toxic if eaten fresh makes the mouth, tongue and throat feel like tiny needle pricking. 

However, calcium oxalate is easily broken down either by thoroughly cooking the plant.

Do make sure you thoroughly identify the species if considering it as edible.

This Alocasia has a sturdy and firm foliage structure which can stand strong elements either strong wind and rain and the foliage rarely get damage unless its aged or withering. The coloration however are monotone - fully glossy green in nature. There are few slight variants on this particular one, some are the variegated types which does have cream or white splashes on the leaf surface - those are highly sought after as ornament plant.

There is another similar looking Alocasia known as Alocasia odora - appears almost the same when they are in saplings but once they reach maturity - these have a total different appearance, a notable feature is that this particular one has an upright standing foliage feature.

Care & Maintenance:

Considered fairly easy as this is a tropical hardy plant similar to most bog aquatic characteristics they do love water but can tolerate without them too.

Propagation: By Tuber Division.

When the tuber grows big, cut into several pieces and let it totally dry out for few days and plant it in a rich potting medium and observe for new growth. Once the plant-let sprout out 2-3 new leaves, transfer into a separate pot and let it allow to grow more freely with root space.

Also this plant do give out new plant sprouting from it side which can be easily removed and replanted separately.

Plant Care:

Light: Bright Indirect Sun Area to Semi Shade Area.
They can be grown on direct sun but requires a swampy condition - loves wet feet areas.

Watering:

They love over watering and can also tolerate dry conditions but won't grow bigger than usual in dry conditions.

Feeding: 

General Plant Feeding Care - not too particular as this is not a sensitive plant

Pest: 

Spider mites might be found at underside of leaves.

Do note where the stem joins the leaf structure. 

As you can see - the leaf form like a "V" shape at the edge where there is no extra foliage connection.

This is the actual difference of the Alocasia Macrorhizos feature in comparison to Odora.

This is the underside of the foliage. 

The veins are thicker and visible at the backside of the foliage.

This is currently found growing by the roadside - uncared and abandoned 

Also this is rarely cultivated due to the nature where it is considered a weed -  wild version.

The variegated version are very much cultivated and highly prized especially the white or the yellow variety which are sold in nurseries. I would recommend to try to cultivate these for experience sake before trying out the variegated version - just to get the feel of it.

Do click to the Link Below 

To check on the Main Page Concerning Different Types of Elephant Ears Alocasia:

Different Types of Alocasia - Names & Images

Alocasia Odora - Night-scented lily

This particular plant more likely looking like an elephant ear plant is the most common one you will ever find growing everywhere like a wild plant. 

This one may be considered like a weed and may be mistaken for a yam 

- this one though (alocasia odora) is not edible.

Alocasia odora commonly known as night-scented lily, Asian Taro or giant Upright Elephant Ear.

However I must emphasise that this is NOT a Colocasia species where it is considered as a Taro (which is edible) 

This one unfortunately is NOT TARO and had caused poisoning over the confusion over the difference of the species - especially Alocasia contains the needle-shaped raphides (calcium oxalate crystals) in the plant cells.

Though the appearance looks similar - they are different plants.

Care & Maintenance:

Considered fairly easy as this is a tropical hardy plant similar to most bog aquatic characteristics they do love water but can tolerate without them too.

Propagation: By Tuber Division.

When the tuber grows big, cut into several pieces and let it totally dry out for few days and plant it in a rich potting medium and observe for new growth. Once the plant-let sprout out 2-3 new leaves, transfer into a separate pot and let it allow to grow more freely with root space.

Also this plant do give out new plant sprouting from it side which can be easily removed and replanted separately.

Plant Care:

Light: Bright Indirect Sun Area to Semi Shade Area.
They can be grown on direct sun but requires a swampy condition - loves wet feet areas.

Watering:

They love over watering and can also tolerate dry conditions but won't grow bigger than usual in dry conditions.

Feeding: 

General Plant Feeding Care - not too particular as this is not a sensitive plant

Pest: 

Spider mites might be found at underside of leaves.

This particular one is growing in total shade. Note the dark green sheen on the foliage. I had not seen the foliage point upward straight especially the tipping point. Also this one is totally have the leaf fully covered by where the stem is connected.

Hence I believe this one is Alocasia Odora due to that feature.

This is the underside of the foliage.

Also this is the common aroid flower - that appears with two parts of the flower parts.

The stick looking thing inside the hood is known as spadix.

The covering hood is known as spathe and the bottom bulb like cover is known as floral chamber.

Normally the Peace lily plant or Anthurium will have a well defined floral structure that can last for months - this one may last for few days.

Eventually pollination will take place with berry like seeds appearing on the spadix which will be propagated by birds or it's animals that eat it and the seeds deposited in their dropping.

Do click to the Link Below 

To check on the Main Page Concerning Different Types of Elephant Ears Alocasia:

Different Types of Alocasia - Names & Images