I had fallen in love with this hollow leaved one.
Commonly known as Swiss Cheese Vine. This is a tricky one.
The leaves continues to morph and change according to the age & growth of the plant and somehow it's often confused with different species names based on the leaf types but its all actually from the same plant.
Commonly known as Swiss Cheese Vine. This is a tricky one.
The leaves continues to morph and change according to the age & growth of the plant and somehow it's often confused with different species names based on the leaf types but its all actually from the same plant.
However, I'm thinking that this may continue to remain in this size and may never grow bigger unless it had attached itself upon a totem and perhaps may expand it's size but as for now - I had really do not have space to entertain giant size plants.
It is going to be a challenge that once this plant established itself against a wall, removing their roots may cause a huge problem as they can be damaging on the structure - I prefer not to create a new problem for that beauty sake.
The best alternative will be a totem - a pole covered with coconut husk may does the trick - however it still going to take space in setting up in that order.
I had been growing this one for few years but had not found it's size not getting any bigger from the medium leaf shape. However this plant is a slow grower and the growth is more based as longer vine growth than bigger leaf size.
These are what I had found sold in the nurseries - the plant is very much in this uniform shape, almost palm sized foliage plant. They do grow cascading downwards like a trailing vine.
The Main Key Element:
Bright Indirect Light, Fast Draining Medium & Well Balanced Watering Regime.This dictates the success of growth & maintenance of this particular genus.
Similar to a Philodendron species care,these require bright indirect light with good humidity.
It's a tropical plant and therefore adequate watering is necessary.
The best way is to observe how it behaves in your living space and handle care as what is required.
After sometime (in few months) the plant will adjust to the surrounding and acclimatize. Just make sure the optimum ideal watering regime and good lighting is available for this plant. This one requires good bright indirect light - too dark and it would succumb to root-rot or crown rot.
Too bright (as exposed too much to sun) may cause foliage burns.
The plant can face shock and may shed off it leaves.
How to Propagate a Monstera Plant Cutting:
Unlike most plants, this one rarely form seeds.
The best practical way to propagate them is through stem cuttings. The only setback is that this one is considered more sensitive and so more care is required as the cutting do not succumb to stem rot.
1) Always (I mean the Emphasis) Sterile the Tools before using them.
You can either wash them first soap and soak the cutting tool (scissors or knife) with alcohol or heat up on fire.
Again, do not immediately use a hot burning scissors, wait for it to cool down.
(I almost forgot and was about to cut a plant - almost cooked it in the process)
2) Rooting in Water.
To change the water often on daily basis if you are rooting the cutting in water. This will keep the water fresh from harboring bacteria that might cause further damage in stem or root rot.
3) Gentle on the New Roots
Keep the medium ready, Put in the plant first and pour in the medium and compress gently. I had seen people roughly force the cutting into a hardened potted medium and the stem snaps in that process.
I'm pretty sure its had been updated, reclassified and some new cultivar and species been discovered.
The one thing that make a difference is to chose and have a collection based on what pleases you and the availability of space and plant management on your side.
4) IF YOU RECEIVE MONSTERA CUTTING WITH ROOTS:
Do carefully check if the roots are long, firm and healthy. If there are more than 2 visible roots and the roots had spread out with more branching smaller roots than it's ideal to plant it in a medium.
Usually the most ideal Medium used is coco chunk bits
IF you do not have the coco chunks, alternatively you use a balance mixture of perlite, cocopeat, cactus/succulent mix - these should feel coarse and must be fast draining yet able to retain moisture.
Too dry the plant will look withered and you may have to balanced it out with cocopeat.
Too wet and the root rot might set in - and it will cause the leaves to turn yellow and fall out and kill the plant.
This actually require for you to check on the watering regime - to check & balance what is the best ideal condition in your garden / indoor location.
5) IF YOU RECEIVE MONSTERA CUTTING WITHOUT ROOTS:
This is quite difficult and tricky but not impossible.
The NO:1 enemy is root rot - These plants succumb to root-rot easily compared to other genes.
And so, great care need to be observed as not to get them rotting.
a) Wash the plant with a gentle disinfectant, the best will be fungicide.
b) Important - Root the Monstera in water First before planting a cutting in a medium without roots.
This will ensure the cut stump doesn't start to rot (if planted in a medium where bacteria and fungus exist - the course of nature takes place you are not able to see if there is a rot until it's too late)
c) Action can be taken immediately when you can notice the plant rotting in water.
You can immediately trim off the infected part & treat it before the infection gets bad.
Also do not use chlorinated tap water - the best is rainwater.
If you can't get it at least use filtered or mineral water.
d) Change the Water often
e) Rooting Hormone
I had seen some gardeners had tried using rooting hormone diluted in the water and their success rate very high - do experiment this on other cuttings first as getting the right on this experiment takes few trial factor. Sometimes the rooting hormone can speed up the rotting process faster if in checked on them daily - so do handle this on a caution note.
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